How To Use 20 Volume Clear Developer

Daphne says:

Hi Erika,

My hairdresser used Permanent hair color 'KENDRA' 5RB & 20 volume on my hair. I have Gray hair & once in a while a hair toner.I love/d the color.

Unfortunately, I can no longer afford the cost of going to Salon. I am retired with very limited income. After Covid, prices went up really high! because Salon was closed for months & owner ( not my hair dresser) was trying to make up for loss of income.

I decided to touch up roots with 'Kendra' hair color 5RB & Kendra 20 volume & Gray roots came out brassy orange! Help! What did I do wrong?
Did I put the wrong volume? ( I put 20 volume).
Not mix it thoroughly well?
I have no Facebook or any Social media. I am however willing to send a photo of my Orange brassy roots.

I thank you for any advice you offer me.

Is your percentage of gray the same as when you were going to your hairdresser? Is it the same color of gray?

Do you remember if your hairstylist took any additional steps when coloring your hair?

Christina-Marie says:

I have just a few simple words of praise for you young lady! Keep on keeping on your helping sooo many of us oblivions, and as I sat here reading comment after comment after response and response I felt it necessary to thoroughly THANK YOU for your service! Bookmarked for another day. God Bless You & Yours!

after i mix the developer and the color. how long should it sit in the bowl, or should it be applied to the hair right after mixing?

You should apply it immediately. Color begins to oxidize right away, so you want to mix it right before use!

Michelle says:

Hi Erika,
I have several boxes of loreal Excellence in shades of blonde 9 and 10 which I have used for several years. I have found they are no longer covering my grey and this past month had luck adding some colour (without developer) to the resistant greys first then adding the normal solution. I ended up using an extra half a tube of colour to achieve this, but the process did burn my scalp, which doesn't usually happen normally. What I would like to know is how I could turn the Excellence into a NN shade by adding extra colour to the developer and trying it that way. What would you recommend in regards as to how much extra colour from an extra tube I could add to the normal soloution? The Colour tube is 40ml and the developer 72ml. How many more mls would be acceptable?

NN series are unique and shouldn't be mixed with other series of color, so they aren't something you can "make" per se(adding more color isn't going to cover your gray better). You have to adjust your formula in other ways as your percentage of gray grows/gets more resistant.

I have a few suggestions for you:

1) Apply some developer to your gray before applying your color formula. This will help break through it a little bit and allow the color to penetrate your hair easier.

2) You need a new formula. I'm not sure about the specifics of what you are using now, but using 30 volume and adding a touch of 8/9G(1/4 of your formula) will cover your gray without noticeably changing the outcome. Keep in mind- this is something I do with Neutral base colors and it could be different depending on the exact tones you are using.

Lisa Logsdon says:

Hi there! Thank you for all of the great info. My stylist gave me my color recipe to use at home during the pandemic. I have only been touching up my roots with ION perm 7N w/ 20V My greys are awful and come back in within a week. The rest of my hair is getting darker and darker even though I am trying to only get the mixture on the new growth. I did Head & Shoulders & Vit C to do a subtle lift and am now waiting two days to add color. My roots are much lighter and warmer than the rest of my hair. I was thinking of applying 8A to get the orangy warmth out of my roots and hopefully the color will be a little more blended with the rest of my hair. Do you think that this is a good plan? Should I use permanent or demi? And 30V since my greys are so bad? Thank you so much! I have been searching online for so many of your answers!

The 20 volume probably isn't strong enough for your greys, so the hair is only being "tinted" and that's why the color fades so fast.

Do you think that your hair is getting darker, or does it just look darker because the formula you're applying isn't dark enough? Do you know what brand your stylist was using? Often, non-professional hair color doesn't convert perfectly from professional hair color brands(the levels aren't always as accurate, for example).

I would stick with the level 7(permanent), use 30 volume, and add just a touch of 7A(3:1/7N:7A). You should keep the "N" in the formula because it has gold in it and that's really helpful when covering greys(it's a perfect balance of cool and warm, which creates the neutral/natural shade).
***Depending on your percentage of grey/desired level/existing level of colored hair- you may want to use 6A for that 1/4 of the formula. I need to see your hair to be able to tell you whether you need that or not, so you can contact me via Facebook with a photo of your hair(include close-up of regrowth) and I'll let you know what's best!
- Lisa says:
  
  Pictures and info sent! Thank you so much!

Tracey-Anne Garswood says:

Im so amazed by your efforts to reply to every question with such thorough and helpful advice and hoping you could help me with my root retouch problem. Most root retouch posts and videos i see are for dark roots on blonds and light ends.
I started using 4.71 wella basically all over after having a very bright fashion red mids and ends dark shadow root job done in salon. But over time iv developed a darker build up on the mids and ends and had to continue to lower the level i use on my roots to try and acheive some sort of consistancy. Iv got done to a 3 and yet still havng lighter roots then the build up all over and dont know where to go from here. I dont want to go black. My natural/regrowth is much lighter 5ish brown kind of vibe. Iv tried 10v with a 3 and there is still a noticable difference and it also come out very warm and also fades very quickly. Is my only option now to do a colour remover or bleach bath on the mids and ends then try a brown all over? I have had someone recomend a 3.0 with 5v for 20 min rinse and then a 5.20 with 10v or 20v for 40 min all over. I dont understand how that will work as i dont beleive colour lifts colour when the ends are soo dark. Could you make any recommendations please? I do intend on going to a salon as soon as time and money permits but im just trying to get by till then. Thank you

It depends on how you've been coloring your hair.

If you've been applying the same color from roots to ends…then the regrowth will look lighter(to prevent this you would have only retouched the new growth up to the demarcation line and feathered through where the existing color was(you can do this with a brush or just lightly drag some color through with a comb after applying).

Mixing the 10 with a 3(if equal parts) will give you a level 6.5. I don't recommend trying to achieve a darker level by adding a very light shade with the darker one…if you have to mix levels to achieve what you want it's best today within 3-5 levels(between the colors you are mixing).

I don't know why someone recommended mixing the 3 & 5 rinse then applying the 5.2…that would mean you were applying a level 4 then a level 5 on top…which won't really do anything because your hair would already be darker than a 5.

You may need to do a color remover to achieve the level you want, but I don't want to tell you to do it until I know what your hair looks like and exactly what you want your hair to look like. You can send me a photo of your hair via Facebook and I'll help you with what to do next!

Paige Olson says:

Hello! I use Lorieal HI-Lite 5RV and Ion 1VR. I used to mix them separately and diff developer volumes, but I got complacent after a year, now I mix 1/3 of each tube to 1.5 Oz 40 vol developer, the color is less defined but still multi-demensional,but since I've started using them both in same bowl, my color fades within 6 weeks and turns an orange brass color, is it because I'm using the wrong developer with the ion? Or is a hi-lift and a normal color shouldn't be mixed?

You can't mix high-lift hair color with regular color because of they way they are formulated/need different developers.

Yolz knows says:

I don't agree with the whisks as metal should touch tint and peroxide. That's why the instructions always say use a plastic bowl and NOT metal. The silicone is acceptable

Yolz knows says:

*shouldn't not should
I've been using metal whisks, plastic whisks, plastic forks, etc. since 2007 and they are all fine.

Emilia says:

Hi, thank you so much for this very informative article! I wanted to ask your advice please. I'm currently using Majirel 4.3 to dye my hair but I still have some red undertones (I used a mahogany dye before so maybe it's residual from that) and I wondered if I should use a tiny bit of the Majirel Mix in Green the next time I dye my hair to neutralise these red tones. Please let me know if this would work. Thank you!

The 4.3 in Majirel is a straight gold, so even mixing it with a neutral would help a lot! You could try doing a strip of green in your formula and depending on the ratios, both options will work!

Jessica Barnhart says:

Hi! I am a huge fan of the Wella and have been using it for years. I recently went a couple shades darker and usually mix 1/2 33/0 and 1/2 44/0 (both natural browns) with a little bit of 11/0 (special mix ash) to balance out the warmth. For some reason the color is still coming out a little too warm. Any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

It could be your natural undertones- you may need to add a hint of ash or ash/violet to get the shade you are trying to achieve.

Loïe says:

Hi! This article was really helpful. I'm hoping you can help me with a problem I'm having- I accidentally dyed my hair very red when I was going for a more copper tone. I used Ion 7rr (by accident, the tube was in the wrong place at Sally's and I didn't check the box) over level 11 blonde. I hate it, and it's fading out to a weird raspberry grey color because of how light the hair was already. I got some 8rc and I'm planning to redo the color- do you think I need to bleach first for the copper to come out well? I know that I'd need to bleach one level for the true level eight to come through, but I'm more concerned about the red tones. Thanks for your help and this article!!

I would need to see what your hair looks like to tell you for sure what to use. You can message me via the contact page or facebook and send me a photo there.

I can already tell you that you don't want to use 8RC. Red will be dominant over the copper. In most cases a Copper-Gold would be perfect for what you're trying to achieve.

Currently got 8.0 and 8.1 tonerwant to go lighter up to 9.0 permanant should the toner be permanant or semi permanant and what should mix ratio be. Roots were yellow/ orange but fading and lower hair is more blonder which i like

You don't want to use a level 8 toner if you are trying to go lighter.
Yolz knows says:

You need to do a bleach bath to go lighter. Colour doesn't lighten colour. Mix bleach with shampoo, 10 or 20 vol peroxide. Apply and keep an eye on it.
- Color remover is a safer option, but not always as fast.
Rawna says:

You might need to do your root area longer. I've noticed with people they tend to wash out to quickly which leaves the darker blonde root. To achieve a light blonde like a level 9-10 you want to lift your hair to a pale yellow then tone.

Emma says:

Hi! Can you help? Originally I had bleach highlights but due to lockdown I put a 7/0 all over my hair which I loved, however it's now lifted so my roots are darker as that was natural hair and it's lighter throughout to the ends because that was bleach.
I have bought koleston in shade 7/0 and 7/1 which I am going to mix but I do not know which developed to use? Either 6 or 9 percent?
My natural colour is around a 5/6 so I'm thinking 9 percent but because of my highlights I'm thinking 6 percent so it takes better. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks

Color will not lift your hair the way lightener/highlights will.

Lara says:

Great post, so glad this turned up in search results.
Will demipermanent 8N cover my 10% gray and lighten my mousey ashy dark blonde hair with 10 volume? People say never use higher volume with demis, but demis don't lift, only deposit, right? Thank you

It won't lighten the dark blonde hair, but it could cover your gray a little. I would mix it with 1/4 8G 3/4 8N. The gold will help cover your gray without overpowering the neutral tones.

Jacqueline says:

Hello! I just purchased some ion color brilliance demi in color 4n. I heard two conflicting pieces of advice on the recommended amount of developer. One employee at Sally's recommended 2-2.05 ounces of color to 4 ounces of developer (1:1 ratio?) and the other said 2 boxes of color 4.10 ounces total to 8 ounces of developer (1:2?). My hair is fine but long (mid-back), medium brown with a few grays that are coming in that I want to blend in/color. What amount of developer do you recommend to the two boxes of color? Thanks so much for your reply!

I would follow the manufacturers instructions for mixing ratios. 1:2 is typically the ratio for a demi result.

Jeanette Ryan says:

Hi Erika,
Wow, great and informative article, thank you. I have been using a dye in 5N that is a bit darker than most 5Ns. Now the company is going through a re-make and I cannot get any more 5N. I recently tried mixing equal parts of 4N and 6N, but it came out way too light. Now there's no more 4N available. In what ratios would I mix 2N and 6N to approach a 5N shade? I have been wondering about mixing a smaller amount to do a test spot on my stubborn grey but fear I will waste product. Can you help guide me?
Huge thanks!
Jeanette

You would mix 1/3 2N with 2/3 6N. It could be that the color turned out too light because of your gray/needing a different volume of developer.

Brandi says:

Can I use 20 volume clear to make my hair a darker brown I meant to get creme…but will it still work

Yes! Just make sure that you mix the developer in a little bit at a time so the hair color will mix well. If you add all of the developer in at the same time it will be hard to mix and probably have a chunky consistency. It's just like making pancake batter!

Most people have no clue that shampoos that grow your hair fast (obviously with no sulfates, no parabens and no DEA) even exist. Folks are now able to enjoy longer hair and possess more possibilities. For sure worth investigating.

If you're discussing hair loss, damaged hair, avoiding hair disorders, hair growth, hair health normally, almost the same ideas become relevant.

As a general rule, you have to stay away from hair treatments and products that include chemicals such as parabens, DEA or sulfates.

What is healthy for your hair is healthy for your skin as well.

Clearly the content here is spot on for so many reasons. It avoids the usual traps and mistakes most fall into- buying ineffective alternatives. Keep it up!

Gilma L. says:

Hi! MY natural hair color is medium brown. I got caramel highlights , but now would have to do my color at home. What formula would you recommend if mixing 5n and 8a Wella Demi color? I did 5n, but turns out way too dark. Thanks in advance for your advice!

Why do you want to mix those colors together? Do you need to color your hair all over, or just do the highlights?
- Jenna Wilson says:
  
  Sorry to ask, would you know if I can still mix creme developer 40 vol with a liquid high light Clariol 12a -I didn't realise I ordered a liquid type colour!
  - I don't know what type of liquid highlight color you are referring to, but cream developer is often the best option!

Emily Santos says:

My dauohair has been bleached blonde: the first root Touch-Up came out fine: second root touch up came out brassy orang color. At stylists. I want to bleach brassy roots : can I use powder high lift to bleach out : then wash and apply permanent 10n with 30 developer? Does hair need to be dry between applications and do I bleach first then add color ? Can I add high lift powder directly to permanent color or is it a 2 process job

You can use powdered lightener to lift the brassiness if it is too dark for a toner.

After you lighten the hair you will not need to use the permanent color to lift the hair. You can use a toner instead in 10N to achieve the same results.

When toning you can just towel dry before application.

DO NOT MIX LIGHTENER AND COLOR TOGETHER!

Dianne says:

I've been using 1oz of Matrix 10N and 1oz of Matrix 10WN mixed with 4oz of 10V developer (1:2). It gives a light strawberry blonde color. What would happen if I mixed 1:1? That is 2oz of color and 2oz of developer. Would the color be more blonde or a little darker and more strawberry blonde? Thanks!

It depends on which Matrix color line you are using and whether or not that mixing ratio is recommended with the products. 1:2 typically gives a more "demi" result. If you want a different outcome you should mix the 10N with 9WN, for example.

RIXZAA says:

HI I THINK IT IS AMAZING WHAT YOU'RE DOING HELPING US OUT! AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE ESPECIALLY DURING THESE CRAZY TIMES…..I HAVE A AUTOIMMUNE DISEAS SO I ONLY GO OUT TO MY DR APPOINTMENTS , I DON'T HAVE VIRGIN HAIR I HAVE A DARK BROWN COLOR WHICH I WILL LIKE TO CHANGE ITS JUST LOOKS FLAT NO LIFE !! I WILL LIKE TO STICK TO BROWN BUT JUST MAKE IT LOOK RICHER OR SHINY SOMETHING THAT WILL MAKE MY BROWN EYE S POP A BIT AND MAYBE IN THE FUTURE WILL LOOK GOOD WITH CARAMEL BALAYAGE OR SANDY ANY SUGGESTION IN COLORS I CAN MIX I WILL APPRECIATE UR HELP

It can be difficult to give your own hair dimension at home(especially when there's already existing artificial pigment). I would start with applying a glaze and see if that's enough of a change for you. That will make your hair shinier(and if it's a light enough brown you can use a shade with a bit of warmth to slightly alter what you have now).

Lindsay says:

Thank you for this!! My natural hair color is a light auburn/dark copper. I've gotten highlights a couple times but now want to return to my natural shade. There's a year of regrowth at this point. If I apply (at home or in a salon) a deposit-only color, will it lighten the regrowth once the color (semi or demi-permanent) starts to fade?

The only way to lighten your hair is with lift and deposit-only hair color does not lift the hair.

kay says:

I have black hair and my hair salon uses dark brown to cover my greys which seem to come back after 1 week of dying my hair.

I wonder if you can give me a recommendation of what hair colour and developer I could use and brand name – and would it be 20% developer because at the moment 50% of my hair is grey and 50% black. What shade of brown would I use to match the black.

Thank you

Kay

I would use a neutral color like 3N or 4N(depending on how dark your hair is). You may also want to try a demi-permanent for gray coverage(Redken has a good one)…that way you're not using permanent color all over and you won't have to worry about a demarcation line.

Rt says:

Can you mix 5n with half of 4g and 6m? These are all matrix color sync demi. I usually use 5n and 6m together but wanted a tad darker and golden color this time.

Kate says:

I have been using Ion Demi color and label 10 developer for a few years. As my color has drifted over time due to new grays I looked at other demi colors while at Sallys. It calls for Well brand activating cream which I researched is equal to level 20 developer. It also stated to do a 2:1 ratio. I am used to 1:1. I hate to buy more developer before this bottle is used. Should I still use 2:1 of I'm using Ion developer work Wella demi?

Monika says:

I have been using light ash brown on my almost white hair for years but it now seems too dark. Would adding about 25% soft silver blonde (L'Oréal 8s) Give me a lighter but still ashy color?

Anna says:

Hi! I have found that my favorite shade of blonde can be achieved (so far) only through the use of Loreal Paris Excellence creme in 8.5A Champagne Blonde shade – i have tried a number of toners and not even a hairdresser could get me to such a colour. But it comes with the 20 vol developer and my hair is already at a level 10/9, so it doesnt need any more lift. I have a 20 vol wella colour charm and schwarzkopf blond me 30 vol at home, and i would love to know how to dilute the 20 vol wella developer? or even the 20 vol that comes in the loreal dye box? and will it be enough for the permanent hair colour? I have a 1 litre bottle of bio silk conditioner – would that work? Thank you!!!

Blanca says:

I have dark brown hair with pale blonde highlights. Due to Covid and my age, I'm still at home. My stylist recommended 9A from Paul Mitchell with 30% developer all over!
Big mistake I have 30% gray hair. Part of my top is light orange and my blonde now looks muddy.
What would you recommend I look awful with brown hair and I'm afraid of bleaching it myself. Thank you.

Jay says:

Hi I want my hair like a caramel color.( brown and gold more gold then dark) what two colors can I mix I get my dyes from sallys thank you in advance

KRISTIN IRVING says:

So I have super thick hair I used 40 developer and powder bleach realized that should have used clear well my question is can I use 20 developer clear with ion bleach creme

Yolz knows says:

You shouldn't use 40vol to bleach your hair if it's touching your scalp. 40 vol with bleach is only ok when used for foils.

Irene says:

Hello!
I just got my hair colored(charcoal grey/teal grey) but had no idea that I wasn't supposed to wash my hair for three days. My brother is getting married on Saturday so we've been outside working hard and so I was sweating bad which is why I washed my hair otherwise I wouldn't have washed it so soon. But now my hair is lighter so I am now wondering what I should do…..

Why were you not supposed to wash your hair for three days? Temporary color does fade more as you wash it, but if it was done correctly you shouldn't notice a drastic change with only one wash.

The only thing you can do is refresh the color. Call your stylist and express your concerns!

Chan says:

Hi! Just wondering if I can mix Kenra, Rusk or Matrix creme developer (all 20v) with TIGI creative permanent creme haircolor? Trying to avoid an extra purchase when I already have so many developers lol
Thanks!

… [Trackback]

[…] There you will find 50129 more Infos: confessionsofacosmetologist.com/2016/04/08/5-secrets-mixing-hair-color/ […]

Sarah says:

Hi can you tell me what ratio developer to hair dye I should use for a Demi permanent, well it's a semi permanent andused mostly for toning but when I bleach my roots at home I can't seem to get it past a level 8 but the mid lengths are a 9, using toners just don't cover so want to turn the semi permanent toner into a Demi/ quasi permanent ,I know with toners the ratio is usually 1.2. So is it 1.1 I need with a Demi/quasi ? I'm using L'Oréal dialight in 9 range also If using a permanent hair dye with 10 vol developer will this be permanent or only temporary deposit as only want temporary deposit . Thanks

The ratio of hair color to developer depends on the brand, and you should follow the manufacturer instructions.

I'm a little confused about what you want to achieve. Do you want to lift your regrowth to a level lighter than an 8, then tone? Dia Light is only going to work on hair that is the same level or lighter as the color you are using.

If you want a temporary deposit then you should not used a permanent hair color line.
- Sarah says:
  
  Thanks for the reply ,I asked about the wella koleston permanent and 10 vol as I used it previously after the dialight just on my roots with 10 vol as the dialight wouldn't take , it was used in a 1.1 ratio with 10 vol 3% I'm just hoping this is not permanent if used with 10 vol ?? No I didn't want to lighten the level 8 roots I just wanted to use a Demi/ quasi to deposit colour as toning isn't covering as it's not a level 9 Or 10 for toning . The dialight says to use a 75ml developer to 50ml colour always , so it's a 1 to 1 and half ratio ,not sure if this is the toning ratio as it's usually 2.1 . If I wanted it as more of a quasi to cover better would it be a 1.1 ratio with a 9 or a 10 vol , prefer to use the dialight as it's better for hair and not permanent thanks
  - What level was the color you applied?
    
    Permanent hair color is "permanent" whether you use 10 volume, 20 volume, 30 volume, etc.
    
    10 volume is used for "deposit only"- that's when the hair doesn't require lift to achieve the desired result.
    20 volume is used for 1-2 levels of lift- for example: your hair is a level 7, but you are using/want a level 8 result.
    30 volume is used for 2-3 levels of lift and/or gray coverage.
    40 volume is used for 3-4 levels of lift or high lift hair color series.
    
    Demi-permanent hair color is paired with 6, 9, or 15 volume(for toning with slight lift, and is usually a special series).
    - Sarah says:
      
      I applied level 9 ash ,I know with other brands 10 vol used with permanent is permanent but it's just I heard ( don't know if true ) with wella you can you the 9 and 10 range of permanent for toning ,But I know that's with the 1.9% 6 vol in a ratio of 2.1 so I thought 10 vol isn't much more and 10 vol is used for deposit only usually. So you think even with that being said it's still permanent ? Thanks
      - Yes, even though it is "deposit only" it is still permanent. It is a different type of deposit than that of demi-permanent hair color. 10 volume developer does still lift a tiny bit so it can "open" the cuticle for deposit of color(this does not happen with demi).
        
        Sarah says:
        
        Ok thank you I'll steer clear of the permanent then in future and just use the semi/ Demi Thanks for your help

K Hall says:

I have bleached my hair so that the near the ends are about a level 9 but closer to my roots is probably a level 8. I have a 9a and and 8a toner. Am i able to mix the two together? or should i mix seperate bowls of each and apply to each area?

kathy says:

Hello, I get way too much brassiness out of my hair.My natural hair is level 5 with highlights. I like to keep my new growth in level 7-8 but no brassiness. I have about 30% gray. I like to to try the schwarzkopf, Igora Royal.
I can't decide what color I should use to achieve the results. It would be nice to cover the gray. But, my biggest concern is to be light enough without the brassiness.
Would you help me what what you suggest? Should I go NN + Ash or double Ash? If so, level 8 or 7 and half and half?
Also, I have a similar scale to what you have posted above. It keeps on turning off as I am squeezing the tube. And, looses the memory of what was on there. Do you have a suggestion?

Jayne Thoresen says:

Hi, I'm trying to go for a natural medium brown(slightly ash) , can I use colour touch 5 with 7/1 and not get red tones.

It depends on your hair- natural level and undertones and whether or not you have previously colored hair.
- Jayne Thoresen says:
  
  Hi, thanks. I have brown roots and grey coming through. Previously coloured to medium brown. How do I achieve a natural brown colour?
  - Are you wanting to change the color, or do you need formula suggestions? I can't recommend hair color without seeing your hair…please send me a message via the contact me page so I can help you!

Carolyn says:

Hi, I have level 10 heavy highlights in my natural level 7 ash blonde hair (about 3 inches of regrowth). I bought Ion Demi Permanent color in several shades to try, thanks coronavirus. Can I achieve a strawberry blonde using any of the following or a blend? 6RC, 8N, 9NB, 10NA, and 00 Clear. I have a 10 vol cream developer. Thank you!

10 volume isn't going to be strong enough to achieve the color you want. Also, you will need a different formula for the regrowth and for the previously lightened hair.

I wouldn't recommend attempting to achieve strawberry blonde hair with any combination of those colors. You can message me through the contact me page or Facebook with more information/photos of your hair and I will be able to give you better advice!

Tiana says:

This was very informative. My mom's stylist gave her the brand and color to use for her hair at home. Can I use any 20 volume developer or does it need to be the Redken Chromatics developer?

The color is:
Redken Chromatics
6G and 4G
20 volume developer

Yes! As long as it is cream developer.

Keep in mind that using another brand developer can change consistency, which can affect how the color processes. Some create a very thick color…some are thin…that affects oxidation.
- Tiana says:
  
  Thank you so much!

Bryony Heydon says:

Hello! I bought some colour online 7/4 but I'm worried it might turn out too red. If I mix some 9/3 with it will it turn out like 8/43.

It depends on the level and tones of the hair that is to be colored. Also, mixing those colors will kinda give you the 8.43, but remember that when you use a color that is already mixed, the dominant tone is the 4. When you mix 7.4 and 9.3- the only way to make the copper(4) dominant is to use more of that color.

So, you would want to mix 1/2 7.4 with 1/4 9.4 and 1/4 9.3(depending on the color line you're using and if those shades are available.

[…] 5 Secrets to Mixing Haircolor […]

Jessika says:

Hi! So im experimenting with my sisters hair and she is at a level 8/9 on her mid section and ends but her base color is at a level 6. I was wondering if I could mix a redken color gel 6N and 9N to get a middle color to help blend the base to the ends? Also using a 10 or a 20 developer…? How should I go about this?
- I really need to see her hair in order to give you the best advice, but in theory that could work. 10 volume is the safe bet, but 20 volume would help to lift her base color a little for a more blended look. 10 volume is for deposit only/very minimal lift and 20 volume is for 1-2 levels of lift.
  
  If I knew more about her hair I could give you specific advice. Just from what you've told me though…my gut would be to sub either the 6N or 9N with the same level in an ash and mix with 30 volume. That would give a more noticeable effect(of course, all depending on current tones in her hair).
  
  You can message me via the contact me page if you want to send me a photo of her hair!
Reb says:

Hi I recently bleached my hair from black to an orange brassy tone and applied the olia 5.0 brown box dye over it, however my hair has a strong red undertone. I've decided to mix my own colours now can you suggest what shade I can apply to my hair to get rid of the red tone and in terms of the end result any brown/dark brown shade is fine.thanks!!
Vanessa says:

Hi. I used a "colour remover" and now want to re-colour my hair. I have a colour tube of permanent colour and volume developer. The colour is darker, but if I use the developer it says it will lift the colour up to 4 levels. The remover already has be pretty blonde. The mix is 1:2 but if I mixed 1:1 will there be less lift of hair colour?
- Also- you shouldn't change the ratio of color to developer. Ratios are important to the formula and activation of chemicals.
Vanessa says:

Hi. I used a "colour remover" and now want to re-colour my hair. I have a colour tube of permanent colour and 30 volume developer. The colour is darker, but if I use the developer it says it will lift the colour up to 4 levels. The remover already has be pretty blonde. The mix is 1:2 but if I mixed 1:1 will there be less lift of hair colour?
- Using 30 volume developer lifts up to 4 levels when applied to your natural hair. Color remover doesn't actually remove all of the color. If you want the level of your hair to be the same or darker than what you currently have- you only need to use 10 or 20 volume developer.
Anne Grete Gabrielsen says:

Oh, what a great web site! And with a professional hairstylist who answers and are really good to explain! I have been searching the web for an answer to my question. I haven´t found the answer, so I will try my luck here:

I love the hair color 5.21 (2=purple, 1=ash blue), but it´s too dark for me. I know it exists in 6.21 and 7.21 as well, but not in Scandinavia. My question:
Can I mix 5.21 with a 8? Same brand/type. This brand doesn´t have a 7. Or is 5 and 8 too far apart?

Have a lovely Sunday!
Greetings from Norway, Anne
- Yes! You can mix a 5.21 and an 8.21- that will give you a level 6.5 violet/ash. You can adjust the ratios if needed for a slightly lighter or darker level.
  
  Thanks so much for reading and I'm glad you like my blog!
  
  ♥ Erika
  - Anne Grete says:
    
    Thank you so much for the replay! Just one more thing: is it okay with 5.21 and a "plane" 8? Have a lovely weeked!
    Cheers,
    Anne
    - If you mix 5.21 with 8.0 the result will be a more neutral color.
      - Anne Grete says:
        
        Okay! Thank you for your time and answer <3
        Anne
San says:

Hi there! Thank you so much for that information, it was laid out so well. I have a quick question. I have dark hair (south asian) at around a level 3/4. I lightened my hair up to a 6/7 (with 30vol developer) which left me with lots and lots of yellow, ginger and red undertones as expected. I then went in with a 7.1 permanent dye with 20vol developer to neutralise the brassy tones however although it toned down a lot, it's still very noticeably brassy and red/ginger. Would you advise going back over it with the 7.1 to remove all the brassy tones? I don't think I used too much developer but do you think it's possible I did use too much so the dye didn't effectively counteract the brassy tones. I was aiming for a light ashy brown colour.
- It's hard to say without seeing your hair, but I think the problem here is the variation in tones that you are trying to eliminate. You need the ash/blue to get rid of the gold, violet for the orange tones, and green for the red. That's why only some of the unwanted tones were neutralized.
  
  Also, I don't recommend using permanent hair color for toning…there's less room for error and more room for mistakes that lead to unwanted and unexpected colors. Demi-permanents use lower volume developers and are much more forgiving(also not as damaging if you need to reapply!

R says:

Hi!
I want to get lavender color Purple Riot hair dye and was wondering if I should put clear dye in with it or apply it after ?

Are you saying that you want to make lavender with purple, or that you want to seal it with a clear coat after applying?
- R says:
  
  I was wondering if it was a good idea to add a clear coat to the dye to keep the colour lasting longer and keep your hair shiny or just do it after.. or not at all?
  Im also wanting a nice pastel lavender so I was also wondering if that'd help cut the colour?
  - You can do the clear after the lavender color. If you add it to the color it will just lighten the color and make it less intense/not work as well. The problem with adding clear to a color to lighten it is that the color really won't take and/or hold very well.
    
    I suggest using an actual lavender color like this one – Pravana Pastels Lavender
    
    Remember…in order to get a nice lavender hair color…your hair needs to be very light blonde before applying the lavender color. It will not work on blonde hair with golden/yellow tones(this is true for pastel colors). If your hair isn't light enough then it could still show up but the shade will be different because the gold/yellow will still be present.

Jordan says:

I am looking to get a cooler toned sort of ashy black (some may even call it a very dark gray) but I am at a loss. I was thinking of mixing a gray and black to see if it would give me my desired color but I'd rather know if it would work or not before I buy. Any suggestions, is there a better color to mix with?

It depends on what level you want to be, what color your hair is, your underlying pigments, and if your hair has been colored or lightened.

In my opinion- "ashy black" and "very dark gray" are too different when it comes to hair color for me to give you formula ideas without seeing a photo. A very dark gray shade would be achieved by using a level 3-5(dark brown) because it still needs to be light enough(not too close to black) for the hair to look gray. Here's how I would formulate based on what you said(assuming that your hair is virgin):

Ashy Black- 1A or 1B with a touch of 1N and maybe a strip of straight violet additive(depending on your hair)
Very Dark Gray- 4AA would be ideal, but it depends on the color line because not all brands offer a double ash

Again…those formula scenarios are very vague, but that's where I would start. You're welcome to send me more information about your hair via the contact me page(you can't send photos to me until I respond to that message via e-mail, but if you do I can give you better advice)!

Ali says:

I am looking to experiment at home with hair dye. I got some permanent hair dye on sale can I mix it with demi permanent dye to alter the shade?

You shouldn't mix permanent and demi-permanent hair color together. It might work out, but they require different levels of developer to work properly so I can't say that it will work the way you want it to…just be safe and buy the other shade you need to mix!

I have been a blonde for years. I have very light blonde hair. I generally use icon high lift golden blonde. I decided to go grey so I purchased i con silver titanium. The color is pretty but some of my hair is a gold brassy color..mostly the back. What do I do to correct this. It is a permanent eng color.

Silver hair color will only work on very light hair(and it's best that the hair have little to no warmth to it).

The only way to fix it is with color remover and/or powdered lightener. This will be difficult to do in one concentrated area and still get even results. The color must be lifted out of the hair and the hair needs to be lightened past that brassy stage…then the silver color can be reapplied.

It's a lot to try and do at home, and your hair will be more porous/damaged afterwards(anytime color is removed and the hair is lightened…there will be damage). You could try using the color remover and then doing a "bleach wash" as it is easier and more forgiving.

Jennie Platelas says:

Hi I have bought Chromatics Beyond Cover for grey hair color but I am having issues trying to buy the Chromatics Oil in cream developer 20vol in the UK. I have a 20vol Loreal developer and did a strand test using this but it didn't really cover the grey. Is there another developer that I could substitute for the Chromatics or will it only really work with the same brand?

Color lines that work with an oil-based developer will only work with that specific type of developer.

Kirstin says:

Hi! I'm using ion Color Brilliance & was wondering if I can mix 6NN (dark intense blonde) with 4G (medium golden brown)?

You shouldn't mix an "NN" series color with a regular series of color- only "NN" series. You could mix it with 6N though.

Now…that doesn't mean that it might not work, but "NN" series are meant to be used by themselves to cover gray hair.
- Kirstin says:
  
  Oh! That is really good to know, thank you so much! Was just seeing what I have left to work with because of Covid. Lol… will probably just use one of them. This has been so informative, I'm so grateful for the information here!

Natalie McCaughrin says:

Wow — I have to tell you that I am amazed at how good you are at explaining this, in a rational and ideal way for all. And as a teacher I don't hand out compliments like that often. Just wanted to let you know that you surpass most of the famous hair gurus on youtube (don't worry I won't name names.) Be well and carry on!

Elle says:

I have been using Clairol Soyplex liquicolor. My colorist gave me the "recipe" when I moved to Africa. 6N .5 oz + 8N .5 oz but I've been wondering if I can just use 7N instead of mixing 6 & 8 together? Also Clairol makes a 7 NN (supposedly better for grays from what I can tell) would that be the same shade as 7N?

Yes, you can use 7N instead! She could have been using that formula because her salon only carried even numbered shades or if that color line does not have a 7N.

7NN isn't the same as using a 7N. Do you feel that you need more gray coverage? If not-then I would stick with the 7N. Any NN series is going to turn out a little different no matter the color line. If you want to see the difference check out these color swatch charts!

Dan says:

Hi Erika! Like many women dealing with the stay-at-home order, my mom is in desperate need of a root touch up. Her roots are very white-ish/light grey. Rest of her hair is a warm, dark brown. Her regular hairdresser gave her her color formula but didn't give specifics. All she said was:

"506 (grey coverage)
6M (mocha)
Use 20 volume"

I've never dyed hair before and want to make sure I don't mess it up for my mom. I did some research and I was able to find those numbered products online, but am uncertain of what ratios to use them. (the "506" I found online was "Matrix SoColor 506N Light Natural Brown Grey Coverage" and the "6M (mocha)" was "Redken Chromatics" line. Are these safe/do you recommend?) Can you help interpret that for me?

Any tips/clarifications/brand recommendations/etc you can offer would be super helpful. Thank you!

It's unlikely that her stylist mixed those brands together, so maybe she gave you the number "name" for one color and the descriptive name for the other. You definitely do not want to mix any Redken Chromatics color with another color line…it should only be used with other Chromatics shades.

Also…I'm wondering if the "6M" is also from a grey coverage line. With most pro color lines you SHOULD NOT mix a grey coverage series with a regular series color. Not that it would be the end of the world, but I do not mix grey coverage series with anything other than another grey coverage series color.

The only reason for adding the 6M would be to lighten the shade and add some warmth, which can be done with another color from the same grey coverage series. I'm going to check a few things and let you know what's best to use!

You're welcome to check back here for a response or e-mail me directly via the contact me page for easier communication should you have any other questions!

Anna says:

Hi!
My question is: Can I use 10 volume developer with the dye tube included in box color?
I am lucky in that 10 volume usually does deposit on my gray hairs. I bought box color that comes with 20 volume and I'm worried about it damaging my hair. (I have 10 volume at homes that I can substitute.) Thank you so much & stay well!

You probably can, but it's hard for me to say without knowing what you are using. Most box color kits are meant to be mixed as directed and may or may not work the way you expect if you make substitutions.
- Anna says:
  
  Thank you so much! I will stick to the directions (its garnier)

Everette Giles says:

I went to Sallys today and did the wait outside routine for my hair color. When I opened my color I had crème in a tube. We usually use the liquid 7N ION. My husband colors my hair and puts the liquid in bottle with the developer. We are not sure how to use this as he does not want to use a brush. Help. Please!

The bottle can seem easier, but application is far better with a bowl and brush! It can be a little awkward to get used to(especially for a man because they tend to be more heavy-handed).

Tell him that it's just like painting trim in your house! He needs to make sure he has enough color on the brush, but not too much! He should "dab" the brush into the color while trying to keep it on only half of the brush to 1/4 depending on if you have a long or short brush.

Application works best when applied in quadrants or sections. Part your hair down the middle from your forehead to the nape. Then part from the top of your head to just above/behind the ear to create 4 sections. He can start by applying color to the partings/ "†" section from the root to the demarcation line(regrowth area). Then he will apply to the regrowth in 1/4 inch sections of each section(top first, then back)- starting at the top and working down. I just slice a section with the end of the color brush, hold it up, and paint the underneath part. Then slice another and repeat(this is much easier than trying to paint each side of each slice of hair). Lastly, apply color around the perimeter/hairline(some people do this first, but I like to do it last because it's less messy).

I hope this helps…I know it's a lot, but I didn't want to give you too little information! Feel free to message me via the contact me page or by replying to this comment if you have any other questions!

Sue says:

I'm a new stylist and I get a little confused about something – when mixing color, why would you use two different levels? For me, I use a color line that I would use 5N, but I want to add a B so it's not so drab. The level 5 doesn't have a B, but level 6 does. I know I would be able to add the level 6B to the level 5N, but I don't understand what it would do being it's a lighter level. Does my question make sense? I see stylists do this a lot with toning out blondes too.

Mixing two different levels in a color formula will change the resulting level. In your case- Mixing 5N and 6B(if equal parts) will give you a 6.5, which is just a touch lighter than a 5. The color line you're using probably offers a 4 B as well, so if I were you I would mix 5N(1/2), 6B(1/4), and 4B(1/4) to stay at a level 5.

If you want to be really great at color you have to think outside the box. Everyone isn't going to be an exact level on a color chart. People do this a lot with blonde toners because if the hair isn't lifted to a level 9 then a 9 toner won't work…and a level 8 toner may be to dark. So, they mix in a little of the level 8 toner so that it is effective.
- Sue says:
  
  thank you for answering so quickly!
  - You're welcome! Good Luck!

Kathy says:

Hi Erika,
I was hoping you could help me during these stay at home times. I have been coloring my hair for years to cover up gray hair. I use products from Salley's. The color of my hair will get too dark at times due to the build up of the same color. I have been lightening it by painting on clairol powder lightener. I then am left with brassy streakes which I then put color back in. This method leaves some areas still brassey. In reading the blog it sounds like a toner might work better except I don't know what a toner is or how to use it.
Thanks
Kathy

When you color your hair do you apply color only on the new growth, or does it get overlapped onto previously colored areas? If it does- that's why your color gets darker and darker, and those areas will be harder to lighten/turn out more brassy.

Toner will work, but the tone and level you use is very important. You'll want to use blue(for hair that is closer to yellow/gold), violet(for hair that is more orange/darker brass), or blue-violet(most likely best option) based toner. I often mix it with a little bit of a natural/neutral toner(like 8N) for some balance so the color doesn't turn out "muddy".

It's really hard for me to say exactly what you need without seeing your hair. If you need more advice you're welcome to send me a message via the contact me page!

Sarah says:

I used to use box dye with no issues as a teen. But my hair dresser hasn't dyed my hair (to cover my Greys, but it was all over dye). I believe it was a 4 last time. I'm wanting to do it at home myself. I bought mixing tools, I bought a scale. My hair is naturally curly if I don't straighten/dry it (I normally don't), somewhat dry, long hair, brown with natural reddish tint to it. I was just going to say it a brown again, all over since my Greys (silvers really) are long and everywhere. My hair is to my butt! I figured a 20 developer.. but I've been trying to research the best developer. And then I don't know which color brand to use either???

When was the last time your hair was colored?

Elly MacDudes says:

Very helpful article, thank you! I live I Scotland and like many people at the moment, am on lockdown because of the Coronavirus. I have an amazing, diligent hairdresser who has written to all of her customers saying that she understands we might not be happy with how our hair is looking at the moment, but that, no matter what, we shouldn't use a box dye. But I was overdue for both when the lockdown came into force, and three weeks on, I look terrible! Just before I got her email, I bought a box of Clairol nice n'easy 24-wash and a box of L'Oréal Casting on-line, both demi-permanent. Now I'm afraid to use them. Do you have any advice for people on lockdown? My hairdresser suggested washing our hair less, using brown eyeshadow or brow powder, mascara, and root touch up products, etc., but my grey roots are screaming 'Look at me! Look at me!' louder and louder every day. I don't want to disrespect my colourist, but how badly will I damage her wonderful work if I use a box colour?

I can't say for sure without seeing your hair, but most likely the box will not match up and your stylist may have to do more work later to fix it. How much grey do you have? What is your artificial hair color? I have a few suggestions for a temporary solution, and you may want to read- Should I Do My Own Hair? (it's a short post about our current situation and things to consider).

Here are a few root cover products you may like:

Rita Hazan Root Concealer Touch Up Spray
Moroccanoil Tonal Dry Shampoo

Ashley N Morris says:

Can I use box due and developer for a better color

What kind of products are you wanting to mix?

I think that would be difficult because the box color doesn't specify the actual level, and you'd need to know that in order to choose the right developer. If you're going to go to the trouble of getting some developer then you should just get the color at Sally's as well.

Holly Haverland says:

I had all over bleach blonde and just colored my roots with the wella 4A and 20 vol developer. My natural color looks just like the 4A on the wella hair color sample chart.
Long story short, my brown did not turn out as dark as my natural color and does look a bit brassy also. Which I hate. should I just go over it again with another 4A or get a darker color? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Also did use a protein bond builder before I colored my roots. I was hoping this would help my hair absorb more color. Not sure that it worked.
Thanks!

It's hard to say exactly what happened or what you need to do without seeing your hair and knowing more about your haircolor history, but here are my thoughts…

1. When you go from very blonde to dark hair, it must be "filled" first. You need to replace the pigment that has been stripped from your hair so that it can support the darker color. Usually this is done with a demi-permanent in the copper family(levels depending on the level your hair was when it was blonde). This can also be done all in one step by adding straight copper pigment to your darker haircolor formula, but I don't recommend doing this if you're not a seasoned haircolorist(it is more risky when you are going straight to an ash…it would be different if you were coloring your hair with a warmer darker color).

2. The protein builder is meant to strengthen the bonds in your hair…it won't help your hair hold color.

3. Use a neutral brown(maybe even add a little 4G to your formula…this is what will help the color take and hold).

Paige says:

Thanks for sharing that information! I'm a natural 4 brown, but have had colorists bleach to a wonderful "brassy" blonde for almost 3 years. Recently, I bought Ion demi-perm dye (4N) and colored my hair back brown. I knew it would fade off fairly quickly, but not with so much red/orange undertone. I'm going to buy a permanent 4A now, but curious to know what you think is the best no-box, home hair dye? I'm contemplating Ion again, Wella Koleston, or Madison Reed brands. Are any of these really good, or would you please suggest another quality brand? For the time being, I can't spend more than I already have at the salon. Thanks in advance!

Shawnie says:

I was wondering if I'm starting out with dark hair and I want Crimson hair how can I achieve that?

I need to know a little more about your hair to give you the best advice. Please e-mail me via the contact page and I'll gladly give you some pointers!

Jo says:

Is it ok to mix metallic black and violet

If you're using a temporary hair color(it sounds like it) then you can mix anything you want, it just depends on the result you want.

You're not going to see a lot of the violet if it's very black(unless your hair is on the lighter side…but if it is then the darker color won't last).

Are you hoping for violet undertones?

Wella toner chart uses an international level and tone system. It is used for Hair Toner that describes different shades of Wella toner.

Chrissy says:

I have a question I'm a natural blonde and I have long thick hair with that being said I went to sallys and got some hair color blue black the lady said to get one n only hair dye with a developer #20 .but the hair dye is a 2 application and I'm not sure how much of it to use or how much developer to use

Krissy says:

Hello!

I have a Greyson purple color in my hair now & I mistakenly used pantene shampoo so it washed the color off my roots.. the color came out nice tho , almost an ombré effect ( my natural color is a strawberry blonde) but anyways I am wanting to touch it up but ran out of the color I used , ( ion color brilliance in chrome) so i purchased the color pewter and bought a violet color additive, but i normally need 3 tubes ( thick hair ) and they only had two so i got light charcoal… should i do my roots with the darker color ( charcoal) & then rest with the pewter with the violet additive, … will that work in achieving a purple grey tone? Or can i mix the pewter with a purple hair dye? ( ion radiant raspberry) … what do you think is the best way to get me to the color i want?

I think that using the darker color on your regrowth will create a nice effect. Just make sure you feather it through a little to diffuse between the two colors.

What is the actual color you are wanting to achieve? More grey or more purple? I know you said purple-grey, but in that case using just a violet additive might not be enough. You can mix them if they are both demi-permanent hair colors.

Please reply if you have more questions!

Beth says:

I'm trying to do some touchups use in Calura Hair color and developer… The online directions say to do a 2 to 1 ratio for blondes. Does that mean two parts developer, or two parts color gree hair color and developer… The online directions say to do a 2 to 1 ratio for blondes. Does that mean to parts developer, or to parts color creme . I'm using 8N Color with 30 developer that I got on Amazon

I'm not familiar with that product, but most of the time that means two parts developer.

Amanda says:

What about wella toner t18??

Nichole says:

@ann. I know you posted that a few months ago but I wanted to respond just Incase.. Paul Mitchell shines as far as I know is a demi permanent. You would not use 20v developer with it.. you need to get the processing solution that's made for Demi permanent hair color. It's usually only "5v or 10v" if you were comparing it to the numbers your used to seeing. Paul Mitchell makes a specific solution for his Demi's. Also the ratio is 1:1.

* I do not have a cosmetology license but I'm pretty confident in what I just told you.

Peggy says:

My ex hair stylist used Wella hair color. Never had a problem with red tones. My natural is a very dark brown but not black. My current stylist uses Redkin. I gave her the same formulation my ex stylist was using but getting red tones in the body of my hair. They are using a permanent color for my gray roots. After applying to my roots she applys it to the body of my hair. Why am I getting the red tones. Also since using Redkin, I don't have the shine. I have had a new stylist for 5 months.

Diane A says:

I am trying to get a lighter brown. Are the numbers in hair coloring consistent through out all products? I have been using a golden blonde which my hair dresser told me covers grey the very best which it seems to. I wanted to add a brown to the color mix.
Any suggestions? My hair is grey on the top with just a sprinkling of grey through the rest of my hair. It Looks highlighted and I get lots of compliments on my hair color
I have been using the One and Only brand from Sally's which I prefer over any other coloring I have used. Thanks for any help

Bethany says:

I color my own hair but only do the root, I find my gray comes back out after a week. Any ideas to give me to get the color to last? I use expensive shampoos and color care.

lila says:

Use permanent (Not semi or demi) dye for grey coverage. Leave it on 45 minutes.

Ronnie O. says:

Hi there! What developer would I use for 1A? My hair is brown. 🙂

Katie collins says:

Hi I am trying to work with what I have …. can I mix different brands?

Jennifer says:

Just the article I was looking for as I thought about ounces by weight or volume. I have always used a digital scale but for some reason the crazy thought came to mind that the mass or volunes would possibly ve different lol. Glad I read this!

KATY says:

MY HAIR COLORIST USES SWARTZKOPF 9-7 ON ME. IM GONNA TRY TO DO MY ROOTS MYSELF…. WHAT RATIO OF 9-7 AND 20 VOLUME DEVELOPER DO I USE?

ann says:

Im using paul mitchell shines it says use a 20 developer my hair is blue smokey/blonde color but I want it gray would I still be using the 2:1 ratio when using the processing liquid

Chrissy says:

If I wanted to do a brown to purple ombre what would I need to do it? I really like Chocolate mauve but the cosmetologist I talked to wasn't very helpful. And why wouldn't you use a permanent and semi permanent.. and if you're getting hair dye from Sally Beauty Supply which dyes are the best? I'm totally new to dyeing my hair and have lots of ideas..

Thank you!!

It depends on a few things….

1. What color is your hair now?
2. Is your hair artificial or naturally colored?
3. How often do you plan to or want to retouch your hair color?

If you can answer those questions I can help you with the rest!

Samantha says:

Hi, I toned my hair today but my hair didn't take the color evenly. I used Wella T18 and T14 and the colors just didn't mix as well as I had hoped. I was going to use Well a permanent liquid hair color tomorrow in the blonde shade (platinum) I had hoped for using As Well red/gold corrector and Wella 50 cooling violet to remove red and yellow colors from my hair. Obviously mixing all those together. My issue is I'm not sure it's okay to dye over toner?

It's okay to color over toner, but you should consider using a semi-permanent hair color.

The toner may not have taken evenly if your hair is porous. Also, depending on the desired color and the actual color of the hair before toning…you may need to add a booster pigment to help it take and hold the toner.

Jes says:

I have a tube of GI ON and I don't have any developer. I read you can make your own with deep conditioner and Vaseline, is that possible?

I would not suggest that…developer contains hydrogen peroxide and that's absolutely necessary to cause the chemical reaction you need for the dye molecules to fill your hair shaft.

Sherri Shaw says:

Can I mix a permanent dye and a semi-permanent dye together?

I would not recommend mixing!

Tracy Lowery says:

I'm doing a brown into pink ombre and I'm using pink by joico and 5m by socolor. Can I blend these two with no problem?

Elke Portley says:

Great Article! Question? If I mix a permanent dye with a booster is it necessary to also use a toner? I'm no professional lol so I hope I'm not asking a DUH kinda question!

You won't know if you need a toner until you rinse our the color. Toner is most often used after a lightening color service. Experienced haircolorists should know whether or not a toner will be necessary before they see the results.

Boosters are used to intensify a specific hue in your color formula. I see what you mean about using a booster to tone, but if you're using the proper formula then adding pigment won't matter…if anything it could cause a problem depending on how porous the hair is.

Linda Eschler says:

How would I measure 50ml of haircolor in an bottle that only measures ounces

You can either convert mL to oz, or you can do it the easy way and use a scale.

Just put the bottle on the scale, then push the "tare" button. That will set the scale to 0 and you're ready to go! Don't forget to make sure the scale is set to mL.

This is the scale I use:

Mini Digital Scale

Melissa Kost says:

Hi, I was wondering if I could mix wella gel permanent with a wella toner?

No, I would not mix those together.

Susan Edwards says:

I am not a hair stylist but this was great to read about. I have always known hair colouring can get very tricky so this article was very helpful to find out part of what goes into it. I think I will ask my hair stylist to keep records for my hair if she isn't yet. http://skyenorman.com/hair-colour/

Thank you! Surprisingly, a lot of haircolorists don't keep regular notes! I used to be one of them….I was young and creative(still am…haha)….and I thought that what seemed right at the moment would always be right. Good record keeping is one of the keys to success in this business and people like that. They like that you know exactly what formula was used "that time…last year…when we changed it up". It takes effort, consistency, and repetition to great such a good habit…that's why so few do it…they start out with great intentions and slowing slide off.

Thanks for reading and commenting! Happy Holidays!